Walking through City of Joy- 4

It was to be the best day of our exploration so far, as wherever we went we got more than what we expected. It was also to be the biggest surprise in my experience so far in Calcutta as I got to know the wealth that exists here, as I went to Marble palace or as people call it, Mullick-badi.

Our plans were already set in place as we decided to start with one of the famous Churches in Calcutta, get the permissions & visit both synagogues & follow that up with a visit to Nakhuda Masjid & end with Marble palace or as locals call it, "Mullick Badi".

Christmas decor

Church- It was Christmas holiday and we reached decently post the morning mass, so the church was empty but for the local organ player. And the church had the biggest organ that I had seen so far in my life. Huge instruments, with very old ivory made keys & functionality was also very outdated, giving it that old world aura. But it produced awesome music, as demonstrated by the organ player.


Synagogue- After requesting a lot we got approval through a phone call, as again the approving authority wasn't there at the Nahoum Bakery. Our trump card being the story of Maskey shifting to US in near future & this being his last opportunity to visit both the synagogues. 10 minutes later we were traveling towards the first of the synagogue with one of the regular worker of the bakery. He gave us loads of information about the local Jewish community & the dynamics governing the responsibilities of the social owned stuff of the fraternity, which kept us engaged till we reached the first of the synagogues.

Beth el synagogue-  We knew that  it would be beautiful, having seen the exterior that bit was pretty easy to predict. But since this was the first visit to any synagogue for me, quite a few interesting things emerged out of the experience. Simple things like the skull cap which you need to wear before entering, they were extremely particular about it even though there wasn't a Jew there in sight there, staff was extremely sensitive towards the tradition & customs.

Beth-el Synagogue

It was beautiful at all level, not in your face kind of beauty but serene & calm kind of beauty which soothes your mind. Right from color combination used, white & blue, to old fashioned high ceiling with hanging fans & lights, it was all part of the look. All the windows were made up of different colored glasses, when sunlight passes the glass it takes the color of the glass itself giving it a really nice touch. Chairs & all were in really bad condition, but rest everything was well maintained.



Basic understanding of the structure was very simple, one dedicated area for "Torah Study", where the book would be kept & read, with chairs around it for listeners. 'Torah' would be kept on 'Bimah', a wooden table. Then there would be another area which would be used to keep religious pictures & symbols. This area would be beautifully decorated & full of pictures of symbols which we couldn't understand, but it was nice nonetheless.

Maghen David

Maghen David Synagogue- Though second in the series of Synagogues, it was better than the previous one in terms of beauty. Huge chandeliers hanging on top of the 'Torah study' & the reflection of the windows falling from all directions, make the thing looks fantastic. Beth-el was covered from all direction hence no reflection of colored glasses were visible in side, the same wasn't true in case of Maghen David making it more colorful.

Beautiful looking windows all around, made the place a visual treat. Then the area where the signage/symbols/pictures were kept was much better here. The place also had a different kind of lamp, with a very exotic looking ceiling. It was intriguing for us & without answers to our questions regarding the relevance of all the elements, it remained like that till we came out. The place also had some real designer type stand lamps, which added to the visual appeal. We clicked loads of pictures here, but then we decided to move as there were many more places mentioned on the agenda for the day.

Roads leading to Nakhuda Masjid

Nakhuda Masjid- Like both of the previous public religious place, this was also in middle of nowhere surrounded by shops & restaurants with sea of humanity on all sides. It had a very interesting facade, which stood tall in front of the mosque.
After a while we decided to enter but we were slightly circumspect, blame it on the image created by media or the various news channels or the incidents across the globe or the bias created by our own mind, but we realized later that it was for no reason. It was a different set up inside, the flow of activities were, you enter & proceed towards the well where you clean yourself, feet, face, hands, etc after which you proceed for offering "namaaz".

Clocks with different time

Just behind the facade there was a collection of watches which were showing different time, we guessed that they were attuned to various holy places as per Islam. Overall a very interesting setup with huge open spaces. Loads of people coming & going, at times interacting with known faces for a while. We clicked loads of pictures here also, some came out real nice.

Mullickbadi from outside the official boundary

Mullick-badi or Marble palace- Nothing could have prepared us for the brilliance which we were to encounter here, this was a place which was abode for Raja Rajendra Mullick built by him in 1835, which is still used by his descendants. The place has so many different facets about it that I don't know where to start & where to end.

Beautiful statue inside dirty pond

It is usually not open on weekends, hence visitors have to come on week days in order to enter. There are clearly demarcated public areas which you can enter which has interesting things but other parts are beyond visitors as the royal family still lives there. Daily select number of people are given free food for which there is a queue system (first come first model). And the place is full of beautiful stuff, but camera is not allowed inside. It also has a garden for the kids to play & enjoy themselves.

As soon as one enter, the first sight is the enormous building, in front of which is a beautiful fountain. Now this fountain is the only thing which can be clicked officially, but our greed forced us to take couple of other picture as well of breathtakingly beautiful sculptures. If there were two common observation which has to be mentioned for all pieces of work they would be, first everything is awesomely beautiful & second, none of it is properly maintained. Will come back to maintenance bit later, the place was also home for host of animals & birds of different variety. I don't even know their names apart from the a few like Peacock, Monkey, Orangutan, Langur, Emu, etc. But the sad bit was again they were not kept properly, as in the area was limited for some of the animals, some of them looked as if they were not well, etc. Though I am no expert on these matters, but even then it looked as if the animals were not comfortable.

Also we came across couple of awesome sculpture beautifully made, but completely abandoned. First one would be one of the most amazing piece of work that I have seen in my life & it was kept in a dirty pond which was used for the staff to wash their clothes. I was so sad by seeing this, but statue was changing color, it was dirty but still you can appreciate the effort put it by the unknown artist, at least I was full of respect for him/her.
Second statue was kept somewhere away from the eyes of the regular tourist, it was kept in a low footfall areas of the palace. Condition was not very good & I am pretty sure it was a broken piece of a larger work of art, still it looked pretty nice.

We were already so impressed (and a little sad by the state of affairs), that we could have actually moved out, but better sense prevailed and we decided to enter the main building where there is a part where Raja's collectible are displayed for art lovers to appreciate. After waiting a bit we entered & as soon as we entered we were amazed, not regular amazed but jaw dropping, mouth opening, ass-kicking kind of amazed. The display area was huge part of ground floor & first floor, and every inch of the huge area was covered with some painting made by Reuben or Ravi Verma or some other known artist or it was covered with some sculpture looking extremely expensive or there were visiting cards of great people, politician, etc or vase which looked as if you couldn't buy it with your net worth even after you keep saving for hundreds of years, since we couldn't take any picture hence I am sure I am forgetting many things. But I do remember one thing, we were seriously impressed by the amount of things on display their & the collected net worth that place would have. I mean every single article should be worth at least lacs, if not crores in INR. Their was a select display of birds here also, we were told that Raja Rajendra Mullick was a bird lover.

Palace of Raja Rajendra Mullick

All in all a must visit place for anyone coming to Calcutta for quite a few reasons, one needs to select the personal reason for him/herself.

All in all, a great day with a diverse set of places to explore. Level of satisfaction was rising after every day, we decided this has to continue for at least one more day.